From London Dance Floors to Balenciaga: Meet Martine Rose, the Designer Who Makes "Ill-Fitting" Charming
So shocking!
Summary
- Martine Rose founded her eponymous label in 2007, building a distinctive style around London subcultures and everyday wear.
- Known for playing with garment proportions, her key collaborations include the Nike Shox MR4, and she previously served as a menswear consultant for Balenciaga.
- She will officially step into the role of Creative Director at Balenciaga on November 16, 2026.
Exaggeratedly broad shoulders, intentionally elongated shoes, and slightly ill-fitting jackets—in Martine Rose’s hands, these elements always turn into unforgettable looks. Soon to take the helm at Balenciaga, she has long shaped contemporary menswear through her eponymous label and various collaborations. To understand her designs, start with the streets, families, and dance floors of London.
Growing a design language from life in London
images from/martine rose
Raised in South London, Martine Rose draws on her British and Jamaican heritage. Her family’s personal style, along with the music and nightlife of her youth, serve as her ongoing inspiration. Football jerseys, suits, and track jackets are more than just garments—they carry the identities and lifestyles of different communities.
In 2007, she debuted her first collection of just 10 shirts, gradually building her namesake brand. She preserves the familiar look of everyday clothes, then creates subtle changes through broad shoulders, cropped torsos, or elongated silhouettes. Those seemingly mismatched proportions make us rethink the relationship between menswear and the body.
From the Nike Shox MR4 to stepping back into Balenciaga
images from/martine rose
The Nike Shox MR4 is a great example of her design perspective. Featuring a square toe, an elongated upper, and a raised column heel, it merges the silhouettes of a sneaker and a mule, giving a familiar shoe an unexpected shape. Her sense of fun often comes from this kind of rearrangement of established fashion language.
She also has a history with Balenciaga: during Demna’s tenure, Martine Rose served as a menswear consultant for the brand. Now, she returns to the fashion house as creative director. Looking at her past work, we can expect to see how she brings her observations on real wearers, community, and individuality into the brand’s next chapter.
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