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#MFW:Gucci 壓軸大秀突然停電,以叛逆復古的露點透視打破病態社會!
開場穿著緊身衣的模特在輸送帶上運出來,突然之間燈熄了一切靜止,Alessandro Michele 再次改寫復古歷史!
米蘭時裝週進入尾聲,由 Gucci 作為壓軸,在萬眾期待下終於在昨日登場,在開始前品牌就已經先預告將會帶來一場「碳中和」大秀,擠身於時尚界的環保行列中,邀請函揮別以往浮誇華麗的包裝設計,改以素雅的信封背面蓋上紅色封蠟感受出回歸簡約的初心,不過此場 Gucci 2020 春夏大秀的一開場就令全場心臟漏拍。
若說 Alessandro Michele 是天生的反骨設計師,或許一點也不為過,還記得在去年的秋冬大秀上,Gucci 將伸展台搬道手術室,模特在醫院提著人頭走秀,驚悚的創作理念為時尚界帶來一顆震撼彈,而今年米蘭時裝週上這一場 Gucci 壓軸春季大秀依舊展現這位創意總監喜歡「搞事情」的風格,將大秀搬回米蘭總部 Gucci Hub,一開場籠罩在紅色燈光中,緩慢拉開捲門,頓時全場亮起,在燈火通明的空間下由 21 位穿著不同設計白色緊身衣的模特在輸送帶上緩慢運出來,來表達被時尚限制個體想法,突然一個之間燈熄了,一切靜止。
光揭幕就令人屏息以待,再次燈亮,模特一一出場,由穿著透視連身裙的模特率先打頭陣,上身裸露的設計令全場鎂光燈快速捕捉,本季引用法國哲學家 Michel Foucault 的「Microphysics of Powers」來探討人類的心理與社會關係,模特們快速走過來表達世人跳脫外在規範找到自我定位,Alessandro Michele 以叛逆的創意美學繼續將復古帶到另一層不同的境界,從本次的設計中可以看到在老派復古的基底上以開高衩、深 V、透視、簍空、馬銜鍊設計為 70 到 90 年代做重新詮釋,而配色則是一貫使用大膽鮮豔美學賦予 Gucci 品牌靈魂,如 Alessandro Michele 所說:「時尚具有一個功能,探索更多的可能性。」在擔任創意總監五週年的前夕,害怕無聊的他表示自己是什麼要放手,嘗試新的東西,與以往華麗浮誇的設計比較起來,本季較為簡約、純淨,或許也只有他能將顛覆傳統的美學設計得如此優雅了。