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#MFW: Gucci 上演華麗狂妄的復古面具派對,開啟一場無性別的跨世紀對話!
就在昨晚米蘭時裝周已經悄悄開跑了,由大家最期待的 Gucci 打頭陣,帶來 2019 秋冬系列大秀。繼先前抱著頭顱的「混種基因」系列獲得各界高度關注再到後面 2019
就在昨晚米蘭時裝周已經悄悄開跑了,由大家最期待的 Gucci 打頭陣,帶來 2019 秋冬系列大秀。繼先前抱著頭顱的「混種基因」系列獲得各界高度關注再到後面 2019 早春的墓園主題,Alessandro Michele 的時代將更多不可能的元素融入時尚界,每一次為大家都來不可置信的全新衝擊。而這次 Gucci 就先以一頂藏於木箱中的面具邀請函驚豔眾人,帶來這場震撼的 2019 秋冬大秀!
Alessandro Michele 永遠不會讓人失望,總是帶給大家前所未有的視覺與設計衝擊,這次邀請函是一頂藏於木箱中的面具,刻畫了雌雄同體的希臘神祇 Hermaphroditus,名字是父親 Hermes 與母親 Aphrodite 的合體,再次展現了 Michele 對於雌雄同體與古典神話世界的熱愛,而面具的意義並不只單純代表了審美眼光,Gucci 發表了一篇言論,表示就像是 18 世紀盛行的假面舞會,人們戴上面具可以變成另外一個身份,面具有保護也有自己想變成怎樣的自由。
而這次的秋冬大秀,可以見到模特兒們各個戴上面具或大型浮誇帽款與飾品全遮、半遮住臉部,表達品牌這次想要傳達的理念,一如繼往的探討政治理論家 Hannah Arendt 所認為的:當我們在公開場合表現自己的時候,人們總是以多元的身份在隱藏真實的自己。而戴上面具的我們,才是真正的自我,認為面具底下的你我都是自由的象徵。
秀場以巨大的鏡面天花板與圓形空間打造,加上 120,000 顆 LED 燈,展現超華麗絢彩燈光效果打造而成的戲劇舞台,而在大秀的一開始由叢林獅吼作為大秀序曲,當模特開始走上伸展台時,19 世紀的宗教頌歌《Gabriel’s Message》響起,開始了這場世紀的古典神話面具派對,Michele 表示一個溫柔的軀體與靈魂,需要一頂面具來保護,在狂妄的背後盡情表現真實自我。
而 Gucci 本季的服裝色系明顯呈現與過往以鮮豔大膽色彩為主不同,這次大走柔和的色調美學,沈穩地行走在灰色、棕色、卡其色、與駝色間,而服裝設計依舊展現 Michele 最標誌的解構式剪裁與印花圖騰設計,Oversized 寬鬆墊肩西裝、羊腿袖、華麗宮廷大領片襯衫等在設計細節上持續展現他最痴迷的 Vintage 復古美學,再以模特臉上的皮革、鉚釘面具作搭配,將典雅與金屬融合,視覺與異材質的衝突讓整體設計昇華到另一層次。
除了面具外,本季最吸引眾人目光的就是模特臉上的眼淚水珠和套在耳朵上的金屬耳環,眼淚是象徵宗教淚水,Michele 表示他總是希望可以引發情緒,而淚水更是情緒化的最佳代表,但在淚水底下的人們非常強大。而耳環的靈感則是來自於藝術家 Eduardo Costa 1968 年24克拉雕塑的「Fashion Fiction1」,另外一個亮點正是護膝,可以見到模特腳上戴著時尚護膝,大家對於 Gucci 本季最新配飾感到相當驚奇,認為果然只有 Alessandro Michele 可以超越自己。