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時尚迷都在看,Gabriela Hearst 掌舵下的 Chloé 有什麼不一樣?
換總監後首個大秀登場,而最受注目的… 就是手袋了!
到了三月,一場場時裝秀在線上揭幕,緊鑼密鼓的行程裡,Chloé 2021 秋冬 Ready-to-Wear 這場格外受到不少關注,創意總監 Gabriela Hearst 在 Natacha Ramsay-Levi 之後接棒,這正是她第一張成績單。
Chloé 2021 秋冬成衣系列共有 30 套 Looks,Gabriela Hearst 紮穩腳步從品牌資料庫抓出元素,佔了大半個系列的洋裝無疑劃下了重點,手紡的斗篷呼應了 Gabriela Hearst 烏拉圭的背景,拼接上羽絨高領的假兩件細節著實讓人眼睛一亮;另外在毛衣、裙子細節處還找到了好一些時候沒見到的 Chloé 蝴蝶;仔細發現,品牌創辦人 Gaby Aghion 1960 年代後期在 Brasserie Lipp 秀上運用的棉質洋裝元素,Gabriela Hearst 則是明針縫於喬琪紗上衣邊線、搭配皮革花瓣、單寧拼接元素,又或者車縫在針織單品的袖口。
而在 Gabriela Hearst 理念裡最重要的環保,她更是毫不保留地火力全開,Chloé 2021 秋冬系列相比去年 2020 年少了 400% 的碳足跡,具體作法包括了不使用初剪的合成纖維、人工纖維,而五成以上的絲線都取自於有機農場,除此之外更有超過 80% 的針織單品為回收羊絨,從國際貿易協會的公平交易成員取材,一步步達成設下的 2025 年永續發展計畫。
而令人著迷的細節,還有各種珠寶及小型配件,陶瓷鈕扣成為的墜子,搭配礦物與紫水晶、玫瑰石、煙石英、青金石,甚至是把大寶石鑲嵌入皮革內,以皮帶呈現出不同的造型搭配;巴洛克珍珠堆疊於回收木材作為墜飾、耳環;墜子懸掛在手袋提把,滿滿 60 年代的嬉皮浪漫。
而作為一袋難求的設計師,Chloé 本季的手袋自然也落下了不少目光,驚喜的是不是任何一個近期的人氣款出現在伸展台上,而是出生在 2006 年的 Edith,除了因為 Gabriela Hearst 認為:「新的不見得比舊的好」,也因為這是她自己第一個,而且鍾愛至今的名牌手袋。
Gabriela 保留了 Edith 手袋的設計,改以回收羊絨、緹花呈現,並且推出迷你尺寸、托特包,以及大容量的醫師包,搭配服裝系列的廢棄材料製成,每一枚 Edith 手袋又都多了獨一無二的意義,其他新款還包括了花邊車縫、拼接、以及手工編織的皮質手袋:「對我而言,這些都是精品,證明了品質與手工藝術可以不華麗地共存。」