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#PFW:高級簡約的中性色衣櫥?Loewe 用一場秀、42 個造型完美概括
自從 Phoebe Philo 離開 Celine 後,不少崇尚簡潔美學的現代女性,都期望有其他品牌能填補這塊空白,除了意大利的 Bottega Veneta 之外,她們也向 Loewe
自從 Phoebe Philo 離開 Celine 後,不少崇尚簡潔美學的現代女性,都期望有其他品牌能填補這塊空白,除了意大利的 Bottega Veneta 之外,她們也向 Loewe 投以殷切的目光。而創意總監 Jonathan Anderson 卻沒有刻意迎合,只是用自己的方式創造 Loewe 的秋冬系列,不依循 Celine 精緻女性的視角,反而用簡單、乾淨的線條,揉合極致的工藝和質感,在現代風格與尊重傳統之間取得平衡。他解釋:「這是非常嚴謹和精雕細琢的,是在顯微鏡下的工藝。」
然而這些精細的衣服並未見匠氣。在他的 JW Anderson 系列上,他曾以「消除雜音」來形容對時尚的專注,這同樣適用於 Loewe——一場相當清簡的時裝騷,在掛上 15 至 17 世紀荷蘭、法國和英國畫像的白色空間之中,呈現一系列線條精準的設計。簡約不代表乏味,反而從光潔可人的皮革、喇叭狀的衣袖、搖曳的蝴蝶結中,可見一份帶藝術感的精緻。
最平常的黑白配色,因為大幅蕾絲鑲邊而變得迷人;米色和橄欖綠等中性色調,以不對稱的衣領、拼色而富變化。除了衣服備受讚賞外,Loewe 今季還帶來精巧的拼色手袋,以及很有潛力成為 It bag 的粗挽帶大皮包。簡而有力,大約就是 Loewe 今季的最佳詮釋。
延伸閱讀:
據說 Phoebe Philo 年代的 Céline 手袋設計團隊已被調到這個品牌?
#PFW:將 80 年代靈魂注入波希米亞風,Isabel Marant 重新定義「樽領」!
#PFW:Lanvin 回來了!換總監後第一場秀,散發現代版的異國文藝情調
#PFW:手袋還是經典款好!走在巴黎街頭,大半時尚女生仍在挽著它