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#PFW:Maison Margiela 一層神秘面紗下,前衛又復古的反叛式美學!
「可愛又迷人的反叛角色」Maison Margiela 總有著這樣的氛圍。
巴黎時裝周在 Dior 翻開創意總監的日誌,以 70 年代作為靈感在柔美與率性不羈之間宣揚女權主義,Saint Laurent 更是在 Anthony Vaccarello 的筆下將性感女人味詮釋得更加獨到,一種迷人的危險正是本季對法國女人的詮釋,稍早 Maison Margiela 大秀也完美落幕,本季依舊在品牌最擅長的解構美學中,讓女人戴上那一層前衛又復古的神秘面紗。
解構、實驗性和前衛是 Maison Margiela 一直以來的註解,以獨特之姿在時尚界邁出一道無可取代的地位,新穎的設計美學對於大眾來說似乎可遠觀而不可褻玩焉,或許凡人無法駕馭但卻又抱著憧憬與幻想,在本季 43 個 Looks 中可以看到今年在傳統經典基因中加入了些 Vintage 來產生化學反應。
今年 2020 秋冬系列以經典的「Replica」作為標籤重新打造,創意總監 John Galliano 將女裝復刻,重塑手工藝的傳統,轉變成為獨特的限量設計,可以說是時裝界難以超越的鬼才設計師,以戲劇性的解構、立體剪裁來重塑中產階級的經典單品,John Galliano 本次系列以回收作為出發點,以混紡、蕾絲、異材質拼接將 20 年代到 70 年代的柳條袋和 5AC 手袋以「Replica」標籤回歸,壓軸連衣裙是以鐳射印花的薰衣草雪紡所製成,以神秘的樣貌帶回 1920年代。