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#PFW:當 Bar Jacket 變成了和服外套,2021 春夏女裝悄悄定義了「New Dior」
除了有超仙的洋裝,舒服柔軟的成套褲裝也在秀後引起了討論!
結束了 MFW,時裝週的步伐轉眼就到了最後一站-巴黎,鏡頭跟著 Dior 在 Place de la Concorde 協和廣場揭開了序幕,想必時尚迷對這個地方早已不陌生,不過這次 Dior 帶我們一踏進會場幾乎是伸手不見五指的黑,抬頭看才發現了本季的巧思。創意總監 Maria Grazia Chiuri 與藝術家 Lucia Marcucci 合作,將品牌不停訴說的女性形象與 Lucia 的藝術思維結合,以拼貼藝術的方式,宛如走進天主教堂裡能見得的藝術玻璃點亮了展場空間,氛圍神聖靜謐,卻又綻放著光芒,也呼應了 Dior 2021 春夏女裝系列。
在 Instagram 查看這則貼文
對 Maria Grazia Chiuri 而言,每個時裝系列作品的構思不僅止於迎合女性身軀,還包括對社會變革的反思、對時事的反饋,而現在世界正面臨的困境,很快地便浮現在腦海中,與其讓 High Fashion 關在自己的世界,更應該走入生活,「現代人生活的方式已經與以往不同,而服裝也應該反映新的生活型態」。
少了勒得緊緊的版型,2021 春夏的線條舒服自在,男生寬大的襯衫被重新修飾成上衣及洋裝,搭配了寬條紋褲與短褲,經典的 Bar Jacket 翻出了品牌 1957 年秋冬高級訂製服似和服的輪廓,加上繫帶呈現出截然不同的氛圍,甚至是同花色地設計了成套的褲款,這對於高級訂製服起家的 Dior 來說,絕對是令人耳目一新的風格,但同時間定義「New Dior」對 Maria 也是一種挑戰:「抓出 New Dior 的模樣是我現在的首要課題,透過 2021 春夏系列我真實地呈現了我的想法(cross fingers)。」