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以 Cambon 31 為名:Chanel 2020 Pre-Fall 系列,長途跋涉之後回歸原點-巴黎
Cambon 31 不僅是 Chanel 旗艦店、Chanel 女士的寓所,更代表著品牌建立起一切的起點。
有別於以往 Métiers d’art 工坊系列大秀,去年在紐約,上一年在 Hamburg,創意總監 Virginie Viard 決定在長途跋涉至各大城市之後,回歸到品牌的起點巴黎,來展示這個代表品牌極致工藝的全新系列,Virginie:「因此,我們不得不考慮一種新的發表方式,將 Gabrielle Chanel 女士所創作的品牌經典符碼與 Karl Lagerfeld 所賦予的崇高精神,兩者完美融合。」
2019/20 工坊系列舉辦在我們再熟悉不過的 Grand Palais,場景重現了 Chanel 第一間設立於巴黎 Cambon 街 31 日的時裝屋,再加上 Gabrielle Chanel 生前的公寓作為靈感,整體色調以黑、米褐色,再加上華麗的水晶吊燈,具歷史的復古金色物件,當然還不能少了著名的迴旋鏡梯,來展現優雅以及不凡的氣勢。
於高聳玻璃屋頂下,最新一季 Métiers d’art 工坊系列隨著模特兒們沿著米色階梯走下沙龍時正式揭開序幕,一套套服裝也與場景、本季主題環環相扣,Viard 將 Chanel 女士家中代表著幸運的金色麥穗作為元素,刺繡在黑色薄紗上,華麗的金色滾邊元素則是令人回想到了 1996 年的高訂系列,Karl Lagerfeld 請了頂級的 Lesage 刺繡工坊所打造的一系列服飾,巧妙地作為細節點綴在口袋及袖口。
Métiers d’art 系列目的即是展現各大工坊的極致工藝,這對在 Karl Lagerfeld 掌舵時期便已經耕耘十多年,清楚掌握每間工坊傲人之處的 Viard 來說,絕對是此番系列的最大看點,細看每個單品都會令人帶來驚喜,包括了羽毛細緻的呈現手法,圖騰上安排的山茶花圖紋、薄紗上又安排了什麼玄機?Virginie Viard 不是一昧地疊加花俏的工藝,而是以恰好的設計帶大家回歸到最初,就像她在後台說的:「回到香奈兒品牌的根本元素即是以簡約為主軸, 我們不需要過度裝飾。」