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#PFW : Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood 最新 2018 春夏系列,藉大量色彩向妻訴愛意
自去年秋季開始,Vivienne Westwood 的同名個人品牌便更名為「 Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood 」,自此這位既身為 Westwood
自去年秋季開始,Vivienne Westwood 的同名個人品牌便更名為「 Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood 」,自此這位既身為 Westwood 丈夫、在品牌中擔任創意總監一角的 Kronthaler,便挑起品牌轉型的重擔,在 2018 春夏系列上盡情展現自由不受限的設計思維 —— 系列既蘊含 Westwood 原來的精神面貌,同時將他自己出生地奧地利的鄉村農場風貌呈現給觀眾,畢竟今年的夏天,他跟 Westwood 到奧地利的 Tyrol 農場度假,並將自己在這段時間內所獲取的靈感與啟發,投射至這個春夏系列上,藉此展現情慾、慾望、性和悲傷,同時夾雜品牌原來龐克頹廢的氣息,色彩的運用及模特兒身上的額外裝置更讓人大開眼界。
Kronthaler 很坦白,開場前在場內筆記上寫明「 the older I get the more sensual I feel 」( 中譯:年紀愈大,愈令我更加感性 ),暗示這場時裝秀,是一封他給妻子 Westwood 的情書。細心留意的話,那些印上心型圖案的衣服、斜肩包上繡上「 A & V 」的字樣,都是情書的一部分:再加上大量的花卉圖案,不就是向妻子獻花的深情丈夫嗎?Vivienne Westwood 原來前衛的形象,也能夠在浮誇的流蘇設計、外型像男性陰莖的下身設計及巨型荷葉邊連身裙與一系列誇張的帽飾中體現得到。然而你可別忘了,這也是 Kronthaler 展現奧地利田園風情的機會,那些甚有民族氣息的田園碎花,總是約隱約現般出現在衣裳間;而那個印有大麻葉的金腰帶,又似乎是在呼喚田園以外的世界。如此多彩又複雜的設計,看來 Andreas Kronthaler 已在轉型中摸出一個新方向。