Graffiti Tabi and his personal white coat: Martin Margiela’s 2026 Paris auction unveils over 200 rare pieces from the master’s archive

Long regarded as one of fashion’s most mysterious figures, Martin Margiela has some heartwarming news for us. The legendary designer, who has long stepped away from the spotlight, has announced that he will work with an auction house to offer more than 200 historically significant pieces from his private collection. For a master who never appears before the cameras, his decision to open up his own drawer of memories offers fashion lovers the perfect chance to rediscover him.

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Private memories among 200 treasured pieces

Organized jointly by Maurice Auction and Kerry Taylor Auctions, the sale will be held in Paris on July 9, 2026. The pieces on view span his creative career from 1984 to 2008 and even include handmade objects he recreated while in pandemic isolation.

The editor noticed that this is not only the first time in fashion history that a living designer has personally partnered with an auction house to release archival pieces; it also includes his own white coat and a private telephone from 1988, which he boldly painted white to suit a minimalist space.

Graffiti-covered Tabi boots and miniature dolls

Among the many lots, the most captivating may be a pair of 1991 graffiti Tabi boots, estimated at 30,000 to 50,000 euros. At an exhibition at Paris’s Palais Galliera, visitors unexpectedly left their marks on the white Tabi boots. These spontaneous, irreproducible traces lie at the heart of the brand’s aesthetic.

The most interesting thing about this auction is that it reveals the designer’s playful side. If you enjoy exploring the details behind clothing, you’ll be delighted by the ballet-doll outfits he recreated during the pandemic and the scaled-down miniature garments.

Tender Hermès years for his mother

The most moving part of the auction is undoubtedly the private wardrobe of Martin Margiela’s late mother, Léa Bouchet. Many of the classic pieces he created between 1997 and 2003, while serving as womenswear director at Hermès, became gifts for his mother.

This collection includes about 60 outfits, bags, and pairs of shoes. It features the Cape Cod double-tour leather watch, first introduced in 1998, along with the quietly elegant 2002 Initial bag, made with just two seams. Its soft leather and fluid tailoring preserve the tenderness of those years with his mother.

Curated by his longtime friend Bob Verhelst, the exhibition space is designed to evoke a small factory from the early 20th century. It will be open by appointment in Paris’s 11th arrondissement from July 4 to 8, 2026, with the auction following on July 9.

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