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#PFW:最迷人的雙生穿搭!Thom Browne 將各種動物化身成為手袋造型!
整場秀注入了各種巧思,Thom Browne 再次帶領所有人進入一場奇幻之旅!
來到了巴黎時裝週的尾聲,我們已經看過來自 Vivienne Westwood、Alexander McQueen、Valentino、Chanel、Louis Vuitton 的精彩展演,這回來到 Thom Browne 的秀場內,氣候由陰雨轉為綿綿細雪,樹木和地面都被白雪覆蓋,在悠揚的樂聲中,由一名戴上長頸鹿帽子的人物以舞動的姿勢為全場揭開序幕 ……
接續在其後,可以看到一位又一位的動物使者魚貫走出,並為大家開啟了雪地中的木門,在木門後,是一對對如雙胞胎般的模特兒,不難發現 Thom Browne 將大家都耳熟能詳的「諾亞方舟」故事帶入到其中,來到巴黎,我們已經從不少大秀中看到有關於啟示錄的展演,包含那場令人難以忘懷的 Balenciaga 末日預言,被水侵襲的秀場以聲光效果模擬了大地與氣候,對應著如今日益嚴重的新型冠狀病毒疫情,讓人們陷入了省思。
不過 Thom Browne 很快就讓化作動物的模特兒們,帶領所有人進入一場奇幻之旅,有別以往時裝秀總是將男女裝分別展演,這回 Thom Browne 選擇以出雙入對的方式呈現,更加深了視覺印象,繼前一回演繹了 Marie Antoinette 的奢華風格後,這次設計師再度將經典的法蘭絨西裝做出更多不同的詮釋,與時俱進的剪裁、面料和圖紋元素上增添不少看點。
由灰與藍交織而成的溫暖色調貫穿了整個系列,長板而多層次疊加的套裝,將格紋與多個材質拼接出玩味而精彩的樣貌,讓你目不轉睛的不想錯過任何細節,不論是短褲、過膝長裙等等都跨越了性別的隔閡,其中以西裝外套拼接而成的上衣及長褲更是惹人注目,除了將動物元素融入在設計中,此外 Thom Browne 也將皮革手袋打造成了無數種動物的外型,可以說是此次秀上的一大亮點。在最後一輪的伸展台上,不分性別的模特兒們牽起了手,改以另一種方式相互搭配,似乎正預告著長期存在於時尚圈的性別規範或刻板印象也將隨之漸漸消散。