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#PFW:Lanvin 回來了!換總監後第一場秀,散發現代版的異國文藝情調
Lanvin 最新創作總監 Bruno Sialelli 一月份才倉卒上任,卻施展他的專業才華,以 2019 年秋冬系列打開品牌的全新一章。曾任 Loewe 男裝設計總監的他,能否為陷入困境的
Lanvin 最新創作總監 Bruno Sialelli 一月份才倉卒上任,卻施展他的專業才華,以 2019 年秋冬系列打開品牌的全新一章。曾任 Loewe 男裝設計總監的他,能否為陷入困境的 Lanvin 找到出口?從今季充滿悠閒輕奢感的作品來看,這個法國老品牌似乎看到了曙光,不少粉絲都讚賞:「Lanvin 找到感覺了」、「Lanvin 終於回來了」。
延伸閱讀:Lanvin 敲定新任創意總監!曾效力 Loewe 的他,如何重塑法國老牌的面貌?
時裝騷在國立中世紀博物館(Musée de Cluny)舉行,富垂墜感、層次複疊的剪裁,的確可以看出幾分 Loewe 的氣息,而且更偏向休閒的日裝風格。「我們都知道 Lanvin 是晚裝為主的品牌,你可以在那找到漂亮的奢華面料和色財。但 Jeanne Lanvin(品牌創辦人)也是其中最先廣泛開展女裝、男裝、運動服、窗簾和家具⋯⋯的人,她是我們今天所謂的『生活風格』設計師。」由此可見,Sialelli 將會發掘 Lanvin 更多面貌。
這個系列有著豐富的靈感泉源,從電影《霧港水手》(Querelle)到 Jeanne Lanvin 作品的中世紀藝術和異國旅行元素,甚至南美的民間傳說,造就了這季樸實、具民族風格而自然的設計。貫徹全場秀的印花絲綢,其中一件繡有小狐狸圖案,滲出一點鄉村味道;甚具南美風格的針織衣、印有詩句的針織衣、超大的單肩包等,看似妙想天開的元素拼湊在一起,更見 Sialelli 的大膽創意和細膩心思。他甚至將法國童話 Babar 大象也放入設計中:「我在塞納河上走著,在那裡有人出售Babar 的舊書頁。像每個法國男孩一樣,我和 Babar 一起長大。」
Sialelli 也提出未來男女裝會更緊密結合,他覺得比起性別流動這麼宏大的概念,人們的購物方式更為實際可見:「女士去男裝部門買襯衫,男士去女裝部買漂亮的粉紅色毛衣。我也買了 Celine 的毛衣。」憑著 Sialelli 對市場的洞察力,Lanvin 粉絲暫時也可鬆一口氣吧?
延伸閱讀:
#PFW:重遇 Saint Laurent 的經典繆斯,巴黎中性美的關鍵是墊肩大衣!
#PFW:看 Dior 本季如何把優雅變的叛逆,藏在會場裡的秘密你又發現了嗎?
#PFW:Loewe 秀前倒數預告!將在此「同步直播」