






































































#PFW:跟著 Virginie 走進 Chanel's Library,細細低喃出女性的優雅自信!
絲毫不拘泥帶水,Virginie Viard 傳承了老佛爺的精神,也開創出了自己的一條路!
繼 2020 Resort 之後,Virginie Viard 掌舵的第二個系列,也是首個 Haute Couture 已於稍早登場,這回 Chanel 將 Grand Palais 變成一座圖書館,木質調的設計靈感來自 Gabrielle Chanel 女士家的書房,架上擺滿的同樣也是她喜愛的書,來自 Homer、Sophocles、Lucretius、Dante、Stéphane Mallarmé… 等等,一共呈現了 70 套服裝。
仔細看過每一套 Look,你會發現相比過往,雖然是高級訂製服,不過在 Virginie Viard 的詮釋下相對低調不少,不僅幾乎沒有任何首飾點綴,妝容簡單優雅,髮型也梳理得相當整齊,似乎想帶大家專心透過服裝的本質,透過閱讀串連起女性的優雅與從容。首先映入眼簾的是 Chanel 必備元素 Tweed 斜紋軟尼呢,不過這回非經典的短版夾克,Viard 改以長版的洋裝大衣,筆直的廓型隨著開秀 Model 一踏出步伐便能感受到女性成熟幹練的一面,在色系上,則是多以單色調呈現,再慢慢轉換成有點 1980 年代的寬肩短外套配迷你裙,當然也包括了好幾套使用透膚紗質的飄逸禮服,以及還有以絨布製作的俐落長裙,抓住老佛爺時期的 Chanel 風格,再巧妙地融入她不慍不火的作風。
大家還說,這一季的 Haute Couture,Virginie Viard 解放了女性的雙腳,當我們低下頭看藏在華服下的一雙雙鞋履,沒有看起來具攻擊性的銳利細跟鞋,取而代之的則是 Loafers,而且僅僅只使用了零彩度的黑、白兩色,加上品牌具辨識度的蝴蝶結設計,強調駕馭禮服,高跟鞋並非必需品。