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Balenciaga 52nd 高訂:第一套禮服就被收服,背後與 Grace Kelly 竟有段故事?
最喜歡這種彩蛋😍
「僅以本季致敬對完美的不懈追求。真正的完美不可能存在,但卻總存在於品牌設計師的想法中。」
Balenciaga 回歸高級訂製週,帶來 Demna 掌舵的第 3 個 Haute Couture 系列,52nd Couture Collection 在女高音聲樂家 Maria Callas 清亮的歌聲下登場。Demna 曾說過高級訂製是 Balenciaga 的根,品牌創辦人 Cristóbal Balenciaga 半世紀以前的耕耘,每一次都成了與系列緊扣的彩蛋,無論是模特兒拿著號碼牌的方式,巴黎喬治五世大道 10 號的高訂沙龍,而這一次要從 Look 1 開始看起。
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Image from Getty
Balenciaga 52nd Couture Collection 頭一個 Look 便是改版自 Cristóbal Balenciaga 的原創設計,關於這件禮服的亮點很多,包括走出布簾的 Danielle Slavik 在 1964-1968 年間是創始人最喜愛的模特兒,原版設計正是由她本人展示,還有 Grace Kelly 40 歲於摩洛哥舉辦的生日派對,也身穿著這件洋裝,彷彿穿越時空般,再次回到世人眼前。
再繼續看下去後幾個 Looks,筆挺有力的肩部設計、弧形的 V 領線條… 具有「雕塑感」的精簡造型則是 Balenciaga 本季 Haute Couture 系列的靈魂剪裁,也同樣都是翻出 Cristóbal Balenciaga 設計檔案庫時的重要設計。
用雙眼或許不足夠深刻探索,不過每一個細節都有著令人意想不到的厚工,亞麻帆布裁片先經過手工塗繪處理,再拼接組裝成型,比如襯墊大衣看似用皮草打造,褲裝也與丹寧布牛仔褲或皮褲別無二致;千鳥格、蛇紋設計以及外套上的紐扣和翻領,均被覆刻出逼真的形態。透過這些工藝的加持,展現行雲流水的構型剪裁功力。此外,繪製時採用的油畫筆觸營造出豐富的層次感,用時長達 280 小時。
將二度空間平面上的設計,幻化出絕妙的立體結構。羊毛大衣、棉質風衣和羊絨圍巾,經過精心剪裁和加固處理,即使人體處於完全靜止的狀態下,也會時刻呈現出看似被風吹起來的形態。這種造型包含一種能加固外層織物的針織粘合襯,歷時整整兩天時間手工塑造構型。
尾聲的晚禮服造型,可以見到塔夫綢的質地賦予身體流暢的動態。採用高級訂製技藝的處理方法,打造出靈動且有型的螺旋狀流蘇綴滿衣身。一條平口長洋裝飾以 1 萬顆水晶,逐一固定在 3D 列印的樹脂材質鑲托之上,製作需歷時 900 小時。除此之外,瑞士 guipure 蕾絲、編織鎖甲鏈和亮片裝飾金銀細絲工藝,均體現了工匠們對卓越手工藝精神的不懈追求。
而壓軸登場,在社群上引起討論聲的鍍鋅樹脂盔甲裙是基於 CAD 設計,採用 3D 列印技術製成,並用鉻材質進行拋光處理,內側飾有仿似首飾盒飾面的黑色植絨塗層。整體堅固耐用且具反光效果,將傳統工藝與前衛科技融為一體。這樣的結合為如今的製衣帶來全新啟示,除了要具備最重要的工匠精神,還要兼顧當下的科技,才有可能更加接近完美。
Balenciaga 52nd Couture Collection
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