#MFW: Meryll Rogge’s debut at Marni: packed with polka dots and sequins, the screen is full of adorable circles!

For many fashion lovers, Marni’s greatest appeal lies in its unconventional artistic spirit. The house recently underwent a major personnel change, with Meryll Rogge, who honed her craft at Marc Jacobs and Dries Van Noten, taking over as creative director. As everyone wondered what the new leader would bring to the brand, she offered her answer at the recently concluded Fall/Winter 2026 show: a collection titled “Remembering.” Rather than making a clean break with the past, she used the familiar polka dot and striking circular sequins to awaken Marni’s most authentic, purest spirit of joy.

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Meryll Rogge’s declaration of return

 

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This is more than the launch of a new collection; it is the opening chapter of a new era for Marni. Rather than rushing to overturn the past, Meryll Rogge chose a gentler, more thoughtful path: “Remembering.” She deconstructed the brand’s signature codes, not simply reproducing them, but infusing them with her precise insight into contemporary dressing. In the abstract yet welcoming show space created by renowned design studio Formafantasma, we saw how Meryll Rogge retained Marni’s distinctive DNA while giving it new life.

Polka dots, reimagined: more than a print, they are structure

If Marni has a signature code, polka dots are certainly one of them. In Meryll Rogge’s first collection, though, they are no longer simply flat prints, having been given life and dimension. At the preview, the polka-dot elements appeared enlarged, rearranged, and even transformed into the structure of the garments themselves.

The designer cleverly drew on classics from the brand’s archives, rendering circles in various sizes through Broderie anglaise cutwork embroidery. Skin peeked through the round openings, creating a mood that felt retro with a modern sporty edge. Visually, the dots created a strong rhythm, as if speaking to the brand’s quirky yet lovable aesthetic.

Oversized sequins and mother-of-pearl: circular aesthetics at their fullest

The most striking detail of this debut show was undoubtedly the oversized circular embellishments. Meryll Rogge boldly chose oversized round sequins and naturally lustrous mother-of-pearl, taking the circle motif to its fullest.

These circular elements were hand-sewn onto pure cotton fabrics and substantial outerwear, swaying with the models’ steps and catching the light with a warm, brilliant glow. The combination of industrial touches and fine craftsmanship is particularly skillful: rough reverse stitching is deliberately retained and even exaggerated, creating a strong contrast with the delicate mother-of-pearl. This is more than a three-dimensional tribute to circular polka dots; it makes every piece look like a wearable work of contemporary art.

The joy of dressing without gender boundaries

Meryll Rogge also expressed her pursuit of essentials through her tailoring. Inspired by the Alps on the outskirts of Milan, the collection combines a strong outdoor-sports feel with a genderless design approach. From the mix of industrial-feeling Ciré patent leather and airy organza to the reimagined return of the classic Fussbett sandals and Trunk bag, it all conveys an elegance that breaks convention and exists purely for the joy of dressing.

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